How & When To Pick Your Vegetables:
There are all kinds of vegetables and each of them are different in their own way. Some are hot, some are not. Some are tasty, some are not so tasty. The point is, each of us have different tastes! Some of us may love tomatoes and some of us may hate them. Here is a list of vegetables that you may or may not have heard of or know how to fix them. Keep an open mind and who knows, you just might find out you like them!
Getting started:
At the beginning of spring as soon as you can work the ground. Till vegetable garden area up, using a tiller makes it easer but you can do it by hand. Till as deep as you can. Remember if you have any vegetables in the ground don�t disturb them just go around them. After you have tilled up the vegetable garden area then you are going to want to add all your nurturance such as compost mix, fertilizer and any thing else you might need or want to add in to your garden area. Spread evenly over your whole garden area. Till again to mix every thing up really well.
The next thing you will want to do is plan out what you want to grow in your vegetable garden. You need to get your self a notebook to keep all your notes in. Draw out a map of your garden. Make notes of where and when you sow your seeds. Even make notes of when you sow your seeds for the plants you start in the greenhouse. Make notes of how many plants you started and how many you transplant in to your garden. Keep a good log of what you are doing so you don�t get mixed up and replant the same vegetable twice and have all chilies and no tomatoes unless of Corse that is what you want. Also make a not of any pest and/or problems you might have had in the garden. Make notes of the solutions to any problems. So you will know what to do next time.
Note:
(*) Next to the name means can grow in planters. This is good for people who live in apartments that don�t have much room or for someone that has no room for a garden. You will want to have the right size pot or planter. For plants with just roots such as chilies and tomatoes you will want a pot that is about 20 inches wide X 18 inches deep for plants that you harvest the roots then you will want a window box or a long box about 2 feet to 3 feet long 24 inches deep.
Asparagus- Planting: Early Spring
Seeds- Give your seeds a head stat by soaking them in luke warm water over night. Sow your seeds as directed on the package or 12" apart and 1/2" deep. If starting them in a green house or hot bed, Plant 4" apart and 1/2" deep. Then transplant them to your garden after there is no chance of frost, planting 12" to 24" apart in a row. Then fertilize along each side of your row(s).
Starter Roots- plant as directed on the package or plant 12" to 24" apart in a row. Then fertilize along each side for your row(s).
Harvest:
When the stems reach 8" in height and the buds at the tip of the stem are tightly compressed. Do Not Asparagus is a perennial plant that can remain productive for twenty years or more, although it does require a dormant period during the winter months.
Note:
Started by seed your Asparagus will not produce until the third season. Started by transplanting year old roots, it will not produce until the second season. Beans- Bush Beans Planting- Early Spring
So your bean seeds 2 weeks before the last expected frost. Sow your seeds as instructed on the package or 1" to 2" deep and 2 feet apart in a row, both sides. If you are sowing in hills then 3' apart. Sow a few seeds of each kind of your choice and then wait about two weeks to plant a few more. This will allow you to have the beans of your choice come off at different times of your gardening season.
Trellises - I find that fixing some kind of trellis for your beans to grow on helps. The trellis makes it easer to see the beans. It also makes for easier picking and keeps them up off the ground. Your trellis can be very simple: Depending on the length of your rows, a few T- Post and some wire or sturdy twine will do the trick. Place a T-Post at the end of your row, one about every 4' to 5' after that and one at the end of your row. (You can space them more evenly by measuring and dividing your feet up.) You don't have to sink your T-Post really deep, just deep enough that the weight and wind won't knock them over. Place 3 to 4 strands of your twine or wire around the first T-Post continuing in a straight line down to the next T-Post. Loop around it once until you get to the end T-Post. At the last T-Post, tie your wire or twine off and start the next strand. Example: When bean vines start to grow, you will have to start them on your trellis.
Harvesting:
To find out if your beans are ready to pick, you can bend the bean pod and if it snaps, it is ready. If the bean pod is too ripe then when bent, the bean pod won't snap and is kind of rubber - like to bend. Another way to tell is by opening the bean pod up and seeing if the beans are developed. * Beets- Planting- Early Spring
Sow your seeds in hills 1/2" deep and 1" apart. For rows, sow your seeds 1/2" deep and 14" to 16" apart. When plants come up, if they are too thick, then you may have to pull the weaker plants. This will give more room for the stronger beets to grow. Beets grow better before the temperatures reach 80 Degrees Fahrenheit or hotter.
Harvesting:
Beets are ready 8 to 9 weeks after seeds are sown. To see if your beets are ready to be pulled, uncover them by scraping back some of the soil at the base of the plant and look at the size of the root before pulling them. The beet should be 1 1/2" to 2" in diameter. No more than 2" or your beets tend to be more tough and woody. Broccoli- Calabrese Planting- Early Spring
You will want to start your Broccoli in a hotbed, greenhouse or even in your house if you have room. Temperatures must be between, 40 and 70 Degrees Fahrenheit. You will want to plant 3 to 4 seeds 1/2" deep in individual pots with your Potting Soil. When plants get about 1 1/2" tall, place your broccoli plants into your garden 1 1/2" apart in hills and 3' apart in rows. Do this after the last frost. You can also sow your seeds in your garden in the early fall. Sow 3 to 4 seeds 1/2" deep, hills 1 1/2' apart, rows 3' apart. If you have them too thick, pull out the weaker plants leaving the stronger plants.
Harvesting:
Your broccoli will be ready for picking 3 1/2 months to 5 months after sowing your seeds. When buds are ready, cut the stem under the cluster of buds. After the main bud is picked the plant will still produce smaller clusters of buds for about 8 to 10 weeks. Brussel Sprouts- Planting- Early Fall
Sow your seeds about 130 days before the first fall frost. Plant 3 or 4 seeds to a hill, 1/4" deep, 18" apart and for a row 3' apart. When leaves begin to turn yellow, remove them to give the sprouts more room to grow.
Harvesting:
Your Brussel Sprouts will be ready for picking about 4 months after sowing the seeds. Sprout will be firm when ready to pick. Cabbage- Green Purple Red Planting- Late Summer Sow 3 or 4 seeds 1/4" deep. Hills 2' apart and rows 3' apart. Harvesting: Your cabbage you be ready about 105 to 115 days after sowing your seeds. Pick your cabbage when head is firm. * Carrots- Planting- Early spring
Carrot seeds are extremely tiny. Sow your carrot seeds 1/2" deep and lightly sprinkle the seeds trying to keep them 2" to 3" apart for growth. You may have to thin them out when the carrot plants get to be about 1" to 2" in height. Pull the weaker plants leaving the stronger plants. If you are interested in growing carrots inside an apartment or on a deck, this can be done simply by planting your seeds in a planter box or window box 12" to 15" in depth filled with light sandy soil. Sow seeds 1" to 2" apart 1/2" deep.
Harvesting:
Your carrots will be ready for pulling 65 to 85 days after sown. To see if your carrots are ready to be pulled, uncover some of the dirt around the base of the plant and look to see the size of the carrot. It should be 1/2" to 1" thick. You can eat the thinner carrots if pulled as well. Cauliflower- White Planting- Early Spring, Late Spring and Late Summer
For early spring, you will want to start your cauliflower in a hotbed, greenhouse or even in your house if you have room. Temperatures must be between 40 and 75 Degrees Fahrenheit. You will want to do this about 6 weeks before the last frost. You will want to plant 3 to 4 seeds 1/2" deep in individual pots with your Potting Soil. When plants get about 1 1/2" tall, place your cauliflower plants into your garden 18" to 24" apart in hills and 3' apart in rows after the last frost. You can also sow your seed in your garden in the late spring for a fall crop or in late summer for a winter crop. Sow 3 to 4 seeds 1/2" deep, hills 1 1/2' apart row 3' apart. If you have to thin them out, pull out the weaker plants leaving the stronger plants.
Blanch- you may have to blanch your cauliflower. This can be done by pulling off a few outer leaves to gather over the buds, may have to loosely tie with string. Do this on a dry day. It may take 2 to 4 days for buds to whiten in hot weather. For colder weather, this may take a few weeks to a month.
Harvesting:
Your white cauliflower will be ready to pick 100 to 110 days, purple will be ready in 130 to 145 days after sown. Buds will be tight. Cut the stalk just below the head. * Celeriac- Turnip Celery Planting- Late Spring
When planting in a garden, make sure the night temperatures don't go below 40 Degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperatures are going below 40 Degrees Fahrenheit, you may want to start your celeriac in a greenhouse or your house. Sow your seeds in individual planters and place in a window until temperatures reach and stay above 40 Degrees Fahrenheit. When your celeriac is 2 1/2" to 3" tall, you will want to transplant them in to your garden.
Plant straight in to your garden after the night temperatures reach and stay above 50 Degrees Fahrenheit. Sow your seeds sparingly in a row. The seeds are extremely tiny. You will have to thin out the weaker plants leaving the stronger plants. Harvesting:
About 200 days after seeds are sown. The root can be edible at any stage. Pull your celeriac up and cut off the tops.
Tip:
You can store your celeriac roots in damp sand for many weeks. A nice way to do this is to get a deep, clear, plastic shoe box with a lid and fill it half way with damp sand. Be sure to poke holes in your lid for air. To keep sand damp use a spray bottle of water and mist daily. Celery- Planting- Late Spring
When planting in a garden, make sure the night temperatures don't go below 40 Degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature is going below 40 Degrees Fahrenheit, you may want to start your celery in a greenhouse or your house. Sow your seeds in individual planters and place in a window until temperatures reach and stay above 40 Degrees Fahrenheit and your celery is 2 1/2" to 3" tall. Then transplant them in to your garden.
Plant straight in to your garden after the night temperatures reach and stay above 50 Degrees Fahrenheit. Sow your seeds sparingly in a row. The seeds are extremely tiny. You will have to thin out the weaker plants leaving the stronger plants.
Blanching:
If you choose to blanch your celery, cover the stalk but not the leaves. A good way to do this is by wrapping cheese cloth loosely around the celery stalk and safety pinning the cheese cloth. Leave wrapped for a few weeks, cooler temperatures may take a month or so.
Harvesting:
About 180 days after seeds are sown. The stalk can be edible at any stage. Pull your celery up and cut off the roots at the base. Celery Cabbage- Chinese Cabbage Planting- Early Spring and Late Fall
For fall crops, you will want to sow your seeds 2 1/2 to 3 months before the first expected frost. Sow 3 to 4 seeds 1/2" deep 3" to 4" apart in a row. For a hill, sow 3 to 4 seeds 18" to 24" apart. For spring crops, you will want to make sure the winter temperatures don't drop below 25 Degrees Fahrenheit. Sow your seeds in the late Fall for your plants to mature in the early spring. Sow 3 to 4 seeds 1/2" deep and 3" to 4" apart in a row, or for a hill sow 3 to 4 seeds 18" to 24" apart. After your spring crop arrives, you will want to harvest it before the summer heat arrives. This is because the plant will grow inedible seed stalks.
You may have to thin your plants when they reach 1" tall by pulling the weaker ones leaving the stronger ones. This will give more room for the others to grow. You may have to do this more than once. The plants you pulled for thinning are edible.
Harvesting:
About 80 to 90 days after sown, your cabbage is ready to harvest when they get 15" to 18" tall. Pull the plant, cut off the roots and remove the tough outer leaves and discard.
Chard Swiss- Planting- Early spring and late fall
Sow your seeds in the early spring 3 to 4 weeks before the last frost is due. Sow your seeds 1� deep and 4� to 5� apart for rows. For hills sow your seeds 1� deep and 18� to 24� apart.
If you live where the winter temperatures don�t get below 25 Fahrenheit during the winter you may want to sow your seeds in the fall, for an early spring crop.
When your plant reaches 6� to 8� tall you may want to thin them by pulling the weaker plants leaving the stronger plants to grow. You may have to do this more than once. The plant you pulled to thin are eatable, just cut the root off and discard.
For a second year crop you will want to cut off the entire flower stalk the second year to ensure a nice second crop.
Harvesting:
About 60 days after seeds are sown in the early spring. With a sharp knife cut the leaves that are about 6� to 10� tall at the base of the plant leaving the smaller leaves to grow.
Collard- Tree Cabbage Planting- Early spring Sow your seeds early spring to get the most out of your garden Collard. Sow 2 to 3 seeds �� deep and 4� apart in a row. For hills sow 2 to 3 seeds �� deep and 4� apart. When your plant reaches 1� to 2� tall you may want to thin them by pulling the weaker plants leaving the stronger plants to grow. You may have to do this more than once. The plant you pulled to thin are eatable after plant has grown for 2 months, just cut the root off and discard. Harvesting: About 90 days after seeds are sown. Carefully cut the outer leaves off with a sharp knife not disturbing the center bud. The center bud will keep producing. Corn- Planting- Spring (Old-timers quote �I�ll plant the corn when the leaves on the old oak trees are as big as a mouse�s ear!�)
You will want to sow you corn seeds as the frost has ended in the spring. Sow 3 to 4 seeds 1 �� deep and 4� to 5� apart for rows. For hills Sow 4 to 6 seeds 1 �� deep and 5� to 6� apart. Waite two weeks and re-sow seeds to give you fresh corn at different times. Corn needs to be close together for pollinating each other. So you will want to sow at least 6 to 12 plants.
When your plant reaches 2� to 4� tall you may want to thin them by cutting the weaker plants leaving the stronger plants to grow. You may have to do this more than once.
Harvesting:
About 65 day after seeds is sown. When the silks at the end of the ears of corn turn brown. Your corn will be ripe, and ready for picking. Wait for the ears silk to turn brown for plump, juicy, tasty corn. As soon as the silk has turned brown you will want to pick it to prevent over grown corn. Over grown corn will impair its flavor. To pick the ears of corn, simply pull the ear down and twist till it comes loose.
Cucumbers- Planting- spring
Sow your seeds after there is no chance of frost. With cucumber seeds you need male and female, so when you get your seeds open up your package and most of them should be beige in color these would be the female seeds. There should be a few green seeds theses would be the seeds that will produce the male flowers. When you sow the male seeds, be sure to mark this plant for you don�t want to remove these plants. You will need both male and female plants for pollinating. Both plants will produce.
Sow 5 to 6 seeds 1/2� deep 12� apart for row. For hills sow 5 to 6 seeds �� deep, sowing in a 1� apart in a circle.
When your plant reaches 2� to 3� tall you may want to thin them by pulling the weaker plants leaving the stronger plants to grow. Leave at least 4 plants. Look for your markers so you don�t pull your male flowering plants.
Cucumbers will climb so you may want to fix a trellis (see: Beans Trellis) for them to climb on. This will help keep them up off the ground, so that it is not likely for them to get ground rot and it makes it harder for the insects to get to them.
Harvesting:
About 60 days after sown. For slicing cucumbers pick when they are, 6� to 8� long. For pickling cucumbers 1 �� to 3� long. Cut your cucumbers off with a knife or scissors.
Eggplant- Planting- Spring or summer
Depending or what your temperatures are night and day you may want to grow and/or start your eggplant in a greenhouse or hotbed. Your night temperatures must not go below 55 Fahrenheit and in the day time your temperatures must be at least 80 Fahrenheit or more. These temperatures need to go on for about 3 months.
To start eggplant in a greenhouse about 9 to 10 weeks before temperatures reach and remain not below 55 for the night and 80 for the day time. Sow 2 to 3 seeds �� deep in individual pots. When plants get about 3� to 4� tall if you are going to transplant them into your garden and if the temperatures are good thin now is the time to do it. Keep in mind that stunted plants will not produce. So when ever you are planning on transplanting anything out of your green house you should harden your plants, harden meaning you should take your plants out of the green house and leave them in there pots and just set them in your garden for 1 to 2 days before transplanting them into the ground. You will want to keep warm and moist at all times even after transplanting. When you are ready to transplant your plants into your garden you are going to want to space your plants 1 �� to 2� apart for rows and for hills you will want to space your plants 2� to 3� apart.
Note: To keep down on diseases like the cabbage family, you don�t want to plant your eggplant where you have planted eggplants, potatoes and tomatoes with in the last 3 years.
Harvesting:
About 145 days after sown seeds. Eggplants should be really shiny and about 5 �� to 6� long when ready to pick. Eggplant will dull in color if over ripe. You will want to cut the eggplant off the plant.
Endive- Curly Endive Escarole Planting- Early spring and/or mid summer Sow your seeds in the early spring for early summer crop or mid summer for fall crop. Sow 3 to 4 seeds �� deep 7� to 12� apart for rows and for hills 24� apart. When your plant reaches 1� to 2� tall you may want to thin them by pulling the weaker plants leaving the stronger plants to grow. You may have to do this more than once. Blanching:
When your plant gets to be about 14� to 15� across it is time to blanch your Endive. Cover the leaves and top. A good way to do this is by wrapping cheese cloth loosely around the leaves and safety penning the cheese cloth. Leave wrapped for a few weeks, cooler temperatures may tack a month or so. Some people lay a board over the top of the plants not using the cheese cloth. If plants have moister form irrigating and/or rain you may have to remove the board or cheese cloth and let plant dry then replace to prevent decay
Harvesting: About 90 days after seeds are sown. Your Endive will be ready to pick after blanching is done. Pull the plant and cut off the roots and discard. Kohlrabi- Planting- Early Spring summer and early fall
Sow your seeds in the early spring and continue to sow seeds every 2 weeks through out the summer and fall until about 1 � months before first fall frost is due.
Sow 3 to 4 seeds �� deep 5� to 6� apart in rows. For hills sow 3 to 4 seeds �� deep 16� to 24� apart. When your plant reaches 1� to 2� tall you may want to thin them by pulling the weaker plants leaving the stronger plants to grow. You may have to do this more than once.
Harvesting:
About 75 to 80 days after sown. When bulged in stem gets to be 2� to 2 �� wide across the top your Kohlrabi is ready. Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut at the base of the plant. Remove thin stem and top leaves and harvest the bulge. You don�t want to let the bulge get any wider than 2 �� or your Kohlrabi will be stringy and tough to eat.
* Leek- Planting- spring
Sow your seeds after no chance of frost. You will want to dig a trench about 6� deep don�t discard or remove soil from area you will need the extra soil removed from trench. Sow 3 to 4 seeds 1/4� deep 4� to 6� apart in the bottom of your trench. After your leeks get about 3� to 4� tall you want to fill your trench with some of the soil you removed form the trench. Only fill up to the bottom of the leaves of your leeks. Continue to do this until your trench is filled.
Blanching:
You don�t have to do any thing here if you followed the instructions above. The soil will do the blanching for you.
Harvesting:
About 130 days after seeds are sown. To harvest dig your plant up and cut off the roots, wash thoroughly, slice the white (blanched) area and use Lettuce- Romaine Lettuce Cos Lettuce Planting- Early Spring
Sow seeds in the early spring in green house for first crop. Sow a few tiny seeds �� deep in individual pots. When there is no chance of frost transplant your lettuce that should be about 2� to 3� tall into your garden. Plant your lettuce 6� to 8� apart. Then sow a few more seeds by finely sprinkling a few sees about �� deep trying to leave 4� to 6� in between for room to grow. You will want to re sow your lettuce about every 2 weeks to keep getting fresh lettuce.
You will want to thin them by pulling the weaker plants leaving the stronger plants to grow. You may have to do this more than once. The plant you pulled to thin are eatable, just cut the root off and discard.
Harvesting:
About 42 to 49 days after seeds are sown for loose leaf. About 63 to 70 days after seeds are sown for head lettuce. About 77 to 84 days after seeds are sown for romaine lettuce. To harvest remove hole plant from garden. Cut off roots, and discard. For head lettuces also remove the tougher outer layer and discard.
Okra- Gumbo Planting- Spring
Sow your okra seeds in your garden after night temperatures stay above 50 Fahrenheit. For an earlier crop you may want to start your seeds in the green house. Sow 2 to 3 seeds �� deep in individual pots. Transplant into your garden when night temperatures stay above 50 Fahrenheit and your plants are 1� to 2� tall. Snip off any extra plants that may have grown in pots leaving the stronger plant to grow. Plant your plants into your garden leaving 16� to 18� apart. To plant strait into your garden, sow 3 to 4 seeds �� deep 16� to 18� apart for a row. For a hill sow 3 to 4 seeds �� deep about 30� apart.
Thinning:
When your okra plants get to be 1� to 2� tall you may have to thin your plants by sniping off the weaker plant leaving the stronger plant to grow.
Harvesting:
About 60 days after seeds are sown. Okra has a flower blossom on the plant when the flower looses it petals pick all the okra on plant. If the Okra pods are left on plant after petals have fallen then the okra plant will stop producing okra pods. Cut the pods off with a sharp knife or scissors * Onions- Planting- Early spring
Sow 3 to 4 seeds �� deep about 2� to 4� apart. When plant gets to be 2� to 3� tall you will want to thin some of them out. If planting already started plants weather you started the plants in your greenhouse or purchased the plants. You will want to transplant them into your garden about 2� to 3� deep about 4� to 6� apart. After the tops of your plants leaves start to turn yellow bend stems strait across sideways causing the stems to crimp, this will allow the bulb or onion to ripen. Remove the soil half way to expose the bulb or onion.
Thinning:
Pull the weaker plant leaving the stronger plant to grow. Leave 4� to 6� in between stronger plants. Plants pulled for thinning are eatable.
Harvesting:
About 150 days after seeds are sown or for your transplanted plants about 100 days. When the top of the stem that you crimped turn brown pull the onion or bulb out of the ground, cut the dry brown leaves off and let dry. Peel the dry outer layer away and slice off dry root and discard. Slice onion and use. If you want salad onions then you can pull instead of crimping stems. Cut off root and tips of stems and peel outer layer and discard. * Parsnips- Planting- Early spring and Early fall Sow your seeds �� deep spreading your seeds thick to assure growth. Sow your seeds in the early spring to harvest in the early fall. Sow your seeds in the early fall to harvest in the early spring. For early spring harvest you will want to cover your plants with straw or alight compost / mulch for the winter. Thinning: You will want to thin your plants when they get to be 1� to 2� tall you will want to pull the weaker plants leaving the stronger plants to grow leaving 4� to 6� apart. Harvesting: About 120 days after sown. Carefully dig them up or you can pull them up. Cut the top leaves off and discard. Also you can uncover in the winter and harvest your parsnip. Just cover the other parsnips you didn�t use back up. Peas- Chinese English Peas Garden Peas Green Peas Sugar Peas Planting- Early spring
Sow your seeds as instructed on package or in a row sow 3 to 4 seeds 2� deep 6� apart. You will want to do this on both sides of the row. You are going to want to fix a trellis just like explained in the beans. (See Beans) Skip trellis for dwarf pea plants. You may want to repeat the sowing of your seeds every 2 weeks until 65 days before the daytime temperatures reach 70 Fahrenheit. If plant is immature at the time the temperature reaches 70 Fahrenheit it is likely not to produce. Some peas are hardier and will withstand higher temperatures. (See instructions on package.)
Harvesting:
Depending on the type of peas you sowed harvesting can be between, 65 to 75 day after seeds are sown. Pea pods should be picked when they are firm. If the pod becomes wrinkly or yellowish then that pea pod is old. Chinese Snow Peas should be flat when picked (no lumps in pods).
* Pepper- Bell Pepper Chili Green Pepper Hot pepper Sweet Pepper Planting- Spring
Sow your pepper seeds in individual pots, 2 to 3 seeds to each pot �� deep. Leave in your greenhouse to be transplanted into your garden after there is no chance of frost 18� to 24� apart. You can plant your seeds in a large flower pot about 1� to 1 �� deep and 18� to 24� wide. For apartments, decks and porches. Just place in a sunny window and don�t forget to water. You can sow your seeds strait into your garden after there is no chance of frost. Sow your seeds 2 to 3 seeds �� deep about 12� to 18� apart for rows. For hills sow 2 to 3 seeds �� deep 18� to 24� apart.
Harvesting:
Depending on the type of pepper you sowed it can take 70 to 90 days after seeds are sown. Check package. To harvest your peppers snip off the plant with scissors.
Potato- Planting- Early spring
Potato seeds or sprouts are not the same as other seeds. You want to get root tubers of the type of potato you want to grow and that will grow in your zone. Plant as directed on package. Potatoes like sandy soil; it makes it easer for them to grow in. To plant you will want to dig a trench about 3� to 4� deep and 6� to 8� wide. Plant your tubers 12� apart and if your tuber has eyes (sprouts) make sure they are up. Cover with soil about 3� to 4�. When your potato plant gets 7� to 10� tall you will want to cover the stem of the potato plant another 3� to 4� with soil. This protects the plant and your potatoes from turning green. Some potato plants may produce a fruit on the plant itself DO NOT EAT the fruit it is toxic! You want the potatoes and they grow underground.
Note:
You don�t want to use the potatoes from your store you purchased to eat and has got old and started to grow eyes or sprouts. There are so many chemicals now days it seems like they have one for every thing. My point is that they may have use a chemical to keep your store bought potatoes that are intended for food, to keep them from reproducing. So don�t waste your time and purchase tubers that are disease free intended for planting.
Harvesting:
About 50 to 60 days after planting. Just about the time the flower blooms appear carefully dig around the plant to find your potatoes. Don�t dig up your plant, and leave the small potatoes to grow some more. Just cover back up and wait. You may want to dig up all of your potatoes before winter to do this after the potato plant has died carefully dig up all your potatoes dust the dirt off and let dry in the sun for about 3 to 4 hours then store them in refrigerator.
Pumpkin- Planting- Spring
Sow 4 to 6 seeds 1� deep and 2� to 3� apart. You probably will want to plant your pumpkins in hills. Because your pumpkin vines are going to get 8� to 10� big. As the pumpkins start to grow on the vines you will want to watch them for they tend to rot on the ground. You can help prevent them from rotting on the vine by gently lifting the pumpkin and sliding a board under the pumpkin and carefully turning the pumpkin every few days. Some Pumpkin you can train to grow on a trellis this will help with ground rot.
Harvesting:
About 120 days after seeds are sown. After your pumpkin becomes bright orange and the leaves die cut the stem with scissors leaving 3� to 4� of the stem on your pumpkin. Leave in the sun to harden for 7 to 10 days. Then store them in a dry cool place until carving and / or cooking. * Radish- Planting- Early Spring and Early Fall
For early spring planting, seeds are very tiny sow your seed �� deep very finely sprinkling along your row. Repeat this step every 2 week until the temperatures get to be about 80 Fahrenheit. So you can have fresh radish coming off at different times. For fall planting sow your seed as you would in the spring only wait till the day time temperatures get down to at least 80 Fahrenheit.
There are different types of radishes so be sure to follow the instruction on the package. There are red ones like at the store. There are red & white, white and some black ones. Some grow better in the winter.
Thinning:
You will want to thin your radishes out when the plant gets to be about 1� to 2� tall. Pull the weaker plant leaving the stronger plant to grow. Leave 1� to 2� in between stronger plants. Harvesting: About 24 to 30 days after seeds are sown. Some like the winter radishes take longer about 60 day. To harvest just carefully pull them up out of the ground trim off the root piece and the leaves and discard.
Rhubarb- Planting- Early spring
Rhubarb is a perennial plant and is cold resistant. You will want to put your rhubarb plants where they won�t be in your way and/or disturbed. When you go to buy your rhubarb to plant you will find it with the packaged roots. You can plant rhubarb by seeds but it takes a lot longer and is harder to grow from seeds. Sow your roots as directed on package or 4� to 5� and about 2� to 3� apart. Place your rhubarb root where the buds or top of the root facing up.
Late fall early winter your rhubarb plant will die back. In the fall when your rhubarb plans leaves start to die. Cut the whole plant off at ground level. Don�t pull up the root leave it and your rhubarb will come back next spring. Your rhubarb plant will wilt back in hot temperatures.
Harvesting:
Don�t plan on harvesting the first year after sowing rhubarb roots and/or seeds. If it is killing you waiting to harvest your rhubarb then after the first year of growth the next spring when your rhubarb plant puts on it leaves and the leaf stems or stalks get to be about 1� diameter then you can harvest a few stalks. If you can wait just one more year it is better for the plant.
Harvest when the leaf stems at about 1� in diameter. You can snip them off with scissors or you can grab stem near the base of the plants and give a little twist, pull it should snap right off. Cut the leaf off and discard. Use the red stalk for cooking.
Spinach- Planting- Early Spring Sow by finely sprinkling your spinach seeds �� deep and 12� to 16� apart for rows. For hills sow seeds �� deep 16� to 18� apart. You may want to repeat sowing your seeds about every 2 weeks in ensure fresh spinach coming off at different times. You can sow your seeds until about 7 weeks before the day time temperatures are expected to reach 75 Fahrenheit. Thinning: You will want to thin your plants when they get to be 1� to 2� tall you will want to pull the weaker plants leaving the stronger plants to grow leaving 4� to 6� apart. Thinned spinach is eatable. Harvesting: About 45 days after seeds are sown or when the largest spinach leaves are 6� to 8� tall. When your spinach is ready to harvest, cut plant off at the base of the plant with a sharp knife. Squash- Summer Squash Winter Squash Planting Early spring You will want to sow in the early spring. There are a lot of deferent kinds of squash but planting is about the same. Follow instructions on package or sow your squash seeds 2 weeks before the last expected frost. Sow 6 to 8 seeds 1� deep about 18� apart in rows. For hills sow 6 to 8 seeds 1� deep about 24� apart. Vines will get very big. Winter squash will take longer to grow fruit and like part shade. Summer squash likes full sun and half the time to grow its fruit. Both are planted in the early spring. Thinning: If you want to thin you can when your squash plants get to be 3� to 4� tall. I don�t usually do. You will want to pull or snip (next to the ground) the weaker plants leaving the stronger plants to grow leaving 24� to 36� apart. Harvesting: Depending on the squash you sowed in the spring. Summer squash will take about 45 to 50 days after seeds were sown. An easy way to tell if your summer squash is ready to be picked is the peeling should be tender and easy to puncture. Size matters here because you don�t want your squash to over ripen, it�s not as tender to eat. Longer squash should be picked about 6� to 8� long, Smaller types of squash about 2 �� to 4�. Winter squash will take about 90 to 120 days depending on the type of squash. You will want to let your winter squash fully mature on the vines. Peeling will be very hard unlike the summer squash. To harvest just cut squash off the vine leaving �� to 1� of vine on squash fruit. Sweet Potato- Planting- Spring Sweet potatoes are started from sprouts called slips. You can buy sweet potato slips in the early spring. When you get them you may want to put them in a glass jar of water until you are ready to sow them. Sweet potatoes like to grow in sandy soil.
Thinning: The only thinning here is of the weeds. Carefully pull any unwanted weeds. Harvesting: In the fall to late fall if your sweet potato plant leaves are turning brown/black due to early or first fall frost. You are going to want to get you sweet potatoes out of the ground. Carefully with a shovel you can dig up your sweet potatoes. The skin will tare very and sweet potatoes will bruise very easy. After digging up your sweet potatoes allow them dry and the skin to harden up a bit in the sun for 4 to 6 hours. Then you will want to lay them out somewhere indoors where the temperature is 75 to 85 Fahrenheit for about 2 weeks. Then store dry cool dark place or refrigerator. * Tomato- Planting- Early Spring
Sow your tomato seeds in individual pots in your greenhouse or house about 7weeks before the last expected frost. There are a lot of different types of tomatoes so you will want to follow the instruction on the package. Sow 3 to 4 seeds �� deep. After there is no chance of frost then transplant your tomato plants 4� to 6� tall, into your garden about 2� to 3� apart. Before transplanting your tomatoes you should leave plants in pots for a day or 2 to harden.
You may want to purchase a wire tailrace or fix one for your tomato vines to grow on. This will help keep your tomatoes up off the ground so they are not inclining to ground rot and/or attract bugs that eat the fruit.
You can also choose to pick out your tomato plants at your local nursery. If you have chosen to pick your plants out then let your tomato plants harden and then plant them 2 to 3� apart in your garden or one to your pot 18� to 24�.
If you are growing tomatoes in large planters for apartments, decks, or porches then plant in an 18� to 24� by 2� deep pot. Fill pot with potting soil and plant your tomato plant. The use of a tailrace is a good idea.
You may want to sow some seeds into your garden to ensure tomatoes coming off at deferent times. Plant a few seeds when you transplant your first 4� to 6� tall tomato plants. Wait 2 weeks and repeat for the last time.
Thinning:
You may need to thin if more than one plant comes up in the same spot. Simply snip off the weaker plants leaving the stronger plant to grow.
Harvesting:
Your tomatoes will be ready to harvest when they are full color unless you want green tomatoes. Pick your tomatoes by gently twisting and pulling tomato off vine. If temperatures are getting around freezing or frost and you have a lot of tomatoes left on the vines, remove all of them and lay them out in a dry sunny area and they will ripen. (Old-Timer tail- When cutting green tomatoes off the vine for them to ripen leave about 2� to 3� of the vine on your green tomatoes the vine will continue to feed your tomatoes as they ripen.)
* Turnip- Swede Turnip Rutabaga Planting- Early Spring Sow 3 to 4 turnip seeds �� deep 3� to 4� apart in rows. For hills sow 3 to 4 turnip seeds �� deep 6� to 12� apart. Sow 3 to 4 rutabaga seeds �� deep 6� to 8� apart in rows. For hills sow 3 to 4 rutabaga seeds �� deep 12� to 16� apart. Repeat every 2 weeks until 3 weeks before temperatures are expected to reach 80 Fahrenheit. Can replant in the late summer/ early fall when temperatures back down to 80 Fahrenheit.
Thinning:
You may have to thin out your plants when they get to be about 2� to 4� tall. Snip off the weaker plants leaving the stronger plant to grow. Harvesting: About 35 to 60 days after seeds are sown depending on the type you planted. To harvest pull strait up out of the ground, if you need a little help carefully use a shovel. Cut off the leaves and the root tip and discard.
Vegetable
Information - How to Cultivate and Harvest your Garden Vegetables!
Cut - Pick by bending the stem back and forth until they snap. The white tissue part of the leaves at the base of the plant along with the bottom part of the green stem of the asparagus must always be discarded. Fibers are too stringy to eat.
Butter Beans
Green Beans
Horticultural Beans
Lima Beans
Pole Beans
Shell Beans
Snap Beans
String Beans
Wax Beans
Romanesco
Purple cauliflower
Purple
Snow Peas